Wednesday, 25 April 2012
Magic all around
We spent a few days bobbing around Culebra Island and its sister island Culebrita, a National Turtle Sanctuary, where we were able catch a glimpse of some native Green Turtles and their habitat. At Culebrita we rafted together with our friends on Pura Vida and Blue Kai. We swam together, explored together, and at the end of the day we shared meals together. A little floating commune. Culebrita was a blast. An unpopulated island with beautiful ruins of a light house that afforded stunning views of the area and great swimming and snorkeling, which meant great hunting grounds for Gabe. He loves diving and spear fishing, he does it with compulsive determination. He has gotten very good at it, and we were all reaping the benefits, but the few 5lb lobsters Gabe could catch at Culebrita would only feed his habit for so long. He needed a bigger hit. We heard through the cruising grape vine, that Vieques Island, just south of Culebrita had what Gabe needed and we all coveted: bigger, juicier lobster. We moved our flotilla to Vieques where Gabe and the boys from the rest of our fleet set out on a dive immediately upon arrival. Like I said, compulsive determination. And it paid off. We dined on lobster alfredo that night, but it wasn't until the following day that he speared a 20lb king of the reef. We pot lucked on Blue Kai that evening along with friends from Pura Vida and Saltwhistle, 12 of us in total. Oh what a feast that was. Complete with French 75 cocktails by Susan and tuna patties by Gerard, who sang and played guitar for us after dinner. But the treat of the night came once we got back in our dinghy and made way for Rodeo. South coast of Vieques is famous for abundant bioluminescence which flares up on the surface of the water when it's disturbed. There in Bahia Salina del Sur, under a nearly perfect cover of the night, with only the light from our anchored boats piercing it, we saw what looked like underwater fireworks. Ahead flashes of lime green glow appeared deep under the surface, where current and fish disturbed the luminescent microorganisms, while the wake from our propeller left a milky way of glowing dust behind us. It was magical.